Monday, December 13, 2010

San Evaristo

Arrived into San Evaristo today. It's a large and calm anchorage that has a small seaside community.  Went ashore today to see what the local tienda had since our provisions of fresh fruit and veggies has dwindled since we left Puerto Escondido 10 days ago.  We found tomatoes, avocados, potatoes, lettuce, and other dry foods such as oatmeal (Quaker!) and rice.  This is the first store we have found since we departed our home port.  We estimate we’ll be away from stores and the like for another week or so, so these fresh foods are a treat and will bridge the gap.


Chandler and Henry received an advent calendar from Aunt Carol.  It had chocolate squares under each "window" and as of today it was still unopened.  With a little hesitation Chandler decided to give it to the girl who lived at the tienda. That night Chandler was really glad she had given it away since it looked like the girl wouldn't have had anything of the sort otherwise.  The "spirit of giving" is alive and well in Baja and most definitely within Chandler.


La tienda. The scale on the desk was used to weigh veggies, etc.
outside the tienda...


Sunday, December 12, 2010

Los Gatos

This is a favorite anchorage for cruisers.  Its stunning and massive red rock formations, when hit by the declining sun, makes for a magnificent view and fun place to play.  No signs of life dot the shore so it's private and quiet.  All the same, we were approached by a local husband and wife who wanted to sell their hand crocheted napkins. It's always good to interact with locals, speak a little Spanish with them, share our story, hear theirs, and thereby, further tighten the knot of humanity.

 









As we ran around the beach and red rocks Doug and Henry discovered beautiful seashells and decided to create a shell mosaic.







Sand sculptures were in order after that. Chandler made a flower, mermaid, and ballerina, Doug made a dolphin and then helped Henry Wyatt finish a sailfish.   The next day, as part of their home school activities, Chandler and Henry started writing short stories about their sand creatures.




Monday, December 6, 2010

Agua Verde

Agua Verde sits a short day sail away from Puerto Escondido, thus its popularity among cruisers and day sailors alike.

Doug, Chandler, and  Henry exploring the rock shoreline and marine life.
Spiny lobster and huge oyster shells!

HanaCrew is closest to the bottom of the picture
We left the boat and dinghy-ed ashore to the fish camp

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Our launch; and first anchorage - Candelors Chico

                                             Launching from Puerto Escondido-Dec. 4, 2010


So far we have sailed to Candeleros Chico a small cove 10 nautical miles (nm) from Puerto Escondido.  As we approached we saw sailboat masts but were unsure of the size of the vessels that carried them.  Even through binoculars it was difficult to judge the scale of the boats.  Once we were in the cove we saw four smallish sailboats and couldn’t wait to get to shore to see them up close.  We met Ken, a NOLS instructor, who told us about the boats, Drascombe longboats, and the NOLS program. He was at the tail end of a month-long sailing expedition where he was training would-be instructors how to lead future NOLs participants.  Chandler spoke with one of the participants who said she was growing dredlocks since she hadn’t washed her hair with precious fresh water in over three weeks.  My guess is Chandler won’t be rushing into a future NOLS program, although she’d be a natural after our sailing trip.



Friday, December 3, 2010

Ages to Cruisers

It was a great, nine-year-old morning.  Emily, 15, and Henry caught puny shrimp and watched sea anemones pull the meat into their beaks with their sticky waving arms.  They peeled off mussels from rocks and busted them up to feed the fish.  One time a fish shot up and grabbed Henry's shrimp that slipped through his net.

One of C's best friends is 5-year-old Zada.  They color pictures and paint fingernails, hike together, do sleepovers and play horses.

Fitting in with different age groups.  Teens we've met blend well with a circle of adults; they'll share matching tales of adventure and suggestions for repairs.  We've found "the grandparent ages" the first to organize a birthday party for one of the kid cruisers.  Teens will play Ninja, give piggy-back rides and teach our kids to ride the ribstick skateboard.  These are good youths to turn loose into society.

Saying good-bye

Well, we are in the final stages of departing our home port and I must say it isn't easy to say good-bye to friends and Loreto herself.  I'll miss our home and it's many creature comforts but look forward to the adventure between now and the time we return next spring.

I've added some pictures below of the farmers market in Loreto.  This is where most people buy their week's worth of fruit, veggies and meat along with yard sale-type items.  The produce comes from a small farming community, Constitution, about 1.5 hours south of Loreto. It's the green belt for southern Baja.  Some items sold there however, come from the States, like apples from Washington State. They are a bit soft by the time they make it all the way down here so we will look forward to buying better apples on the mainland, perhaps from some southern location.  With all it's dust and many unkept battered buildings we somehow find Loreto to be quaint and charming all at the same time. 

The Loreto Bay development has started to move forward again which gives the home owners a renewed sense of hope that the property will finish the areas left undone almost two years ago by the initial developer.  Homex, a MX home builder, has taken over part of the development, built two spec homes, sold one and is working with the MX tourism department to repave and complete key roads into the property.  We expect to see some welcome changes by the time we return in May.

Adios Loreto!


 Below: the tamale lady
  
                      Boxes of fruit at the farmers market...









A sign painted on the side of a wall in Mulege, 2 hours north of Loreto.  So this is what Americans want...

Thursday, December 2, 2010

Henry Wyatt's art class

One of the wonderful activities Henry has been able to participate in Loreto is art classes. His instructor is Ann's good friend, Judith (standing in photo). She is originally from Guadalajara on the mainland of MX but she and her family have lived in Loreto for 4+ years. Judith is a graphic and fine art painter and has created many beautiful works of art.  Typically Henry paints alongside Judith's son and youngest daughter who attend the Wednesday afternoon classes but the day I snapped this photo only Judith and Paulina, a friend of Judith's, were painting with him.  Henry has enjoyed learning how to hone his craft by painting copies of famous paintings and pictures he particularly likes.  The picture he painted below was his first attempt. He copied a postcard of a painting done at Adventure Unlimited, the family camp we have attended in Colorado for so many years.  The next picture he painted was of a Van Gogh painting. You may recognize it as a forerunner to Starry Night.  Henry likes the swirls in the sky.  Henry also started drawing birds about a year and a half ago.  He is now interested in sketching them and can do so very quickly and quite well.  Although he'll be able to draw and sketch on the boat, his acrylic painting will most likely have to wait until we return in May.  We're just glad he's enthusiastic about his artwork and can't wait to see what he comes up with next. 

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Thanksgiving on Isla Balandra

We ventured out for a few days of sailing to get our sea legs under us again and found some fishermen who were catching skate but who had also caught some unexpected crabs in their nets.  We traded some canned goods for six huge crab legs and steamed them for a few delicious meals.


Saturday, November 20, 2010

Prepping for our launch and some last minute hiking...Tabor Canyon

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To prepare for our 6-month journey to the mainland of MX we have provisioned to the hilt and have loaded most of the items on board (see photo of Chandler with luggage and Doug loading) while still living in our Loreto house.  Once the goods were on board it was Ann's job to stow everything in drawers, hide-away storage bins, and closets.  Check out how efficient storage on board is with under-the-seat bins that can hold tons of canned goods!



  


























Doug works daily on boat prep and the many maintenance issues always at hand while I home-school the children in the mornings and work at my desk pre-paying bills, finishing up business bookkeeping, writing a few last minute blog entries while we have a strong internet connection, and the usual laundry and cooking activity.  We all look forward to this adventure with great excitement and to letting go of some of the daily grind that accompanies land-life.  It's not that the same chores and responsibilities don't exist onboard but we tend to live a simpler life which requires less of the day-to-day rushing around and activities.

As we spend time at the port, where our boat is moored, we run into cruiser friends who share their experiences with us and that fuels our excitement even more.  They also give us helpful information about what type of weather to expect down the coast as well as provisioning ideas, restaurant locations, and best beach locations.

Today we took the local Tabor Canyon hike, which we have done numerous times, with cruiser friends.  We went further then we typically do and much further than the kids have gone on previous hikes here.  The views from way up in the canyon are striking to say the least.  Palm trees, views of the Sea of Cortez, and canyon walls surround us while a small level of water trickles down the upper parts of the boulders.  Less water up here is a clear indication of the lack of rain this area received this summer/fall.  No hurricanes in this region this year, thus the low water level.  We wonder how that affects the local ranchers and their livestock.

 

















Speaking of livestock, as we drive the road to town and back we see plenty of cattle and horses grazing right at the edge of the road.  Sometimes we see the casualty of that activity but mainly we see drivers forewarning other drivers of animal sightings.  We follow suit and have learned that flashing blinkers from oncoming cars sends the message that animals are nearby so slow down.  It’s only one of a few signals drivers use on the Baja that have become standard communication between motorists.  Having driven the 700+ miles to the US and back many times we have become accustomed to those signals and use them ourselves.  One that confused us the first few times we saw it was when a driver in front of us would signal that he was going to make a left-hand turn, yet we saw nowhere he could turn of the road. We now understand that it means, “the road up ahead is clear of oncoming traffic and you can pass me if you want to.”  Since most of the main road here is one lane per direction the driver in front of us becomes our eyes as we use the oncoming lane as our passing lane.  The tricky thing about that “passing signal” is when someone in front or us really is going to make a left turn and uses his turn signal.  We have to be very careful not to speed up and pass them as they are making their turn!?!  Good info to have if you are considering driving in Baja!

Monday, November 15, 2010

A little October/November Update

Reasons to live here...

1.  Our 10-year old daughter will wear her Halloween costume a week before the big night

2.  Henry joins me when I go the harbor to work on the boat.  There are docks and rocks where a boy can lower a hook.  I'm in the cockpit, he hooks a 4" silver squirming thing, and looks my way.  I give him the thumbs up; it's a two foot yellow tail in his book.  Man, I hope he remembers these days.  I will.

3.  Where kids notice it is low tide and scoot to the beach for clams and crabs, and leave me a tennis ball and bat to bring for hitting practice on the beach later on.

4.  Why do kids dance?  The last night on land at home C & HW put on a pre-dinner show.  Out of the blue to some tune and Dixieland jitter, arms pump, turns, in-line kicks -- just wild dancing.  And we are laughing.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Baja Update - October 2010


We are starting our 4th fall down here; it seems to get more beautiful and full of friends each year.

Some old friends who moved to the mainland visited, and a group of 15 of us had a reunion.  We rented a catamaran and cruised to a nearby island for snorkeling and dinner.  There was a reef full of star fish – no less than 6 different kinds – some were pink with light blue spines!  Water was in the high 80’s.

Joined an overnight Turtle Tagging Expedition.  They net sea turtles, bring them to the beach and measure and tag them and let them go.  The new program hopes to expand and employ previous poachers, and bring out locals so they can see how turtle tourism can be a renewable business instead of hunting them.   We sailed over to Isla Coronado and met up with the group of about 16 with 3 guides who prepared a fish taco feast and put up tents for the overnight.   We anchored off the white-sand beach and were picked up for our 2 hour shift in the evening.   We spotted 5 turtles, but didn’t net any. 
 












When we returned to our boat, there were so many blue needle fish around our hull that the kids netted a couple of them.  
 
Every week we set sail and anchor to get the boat ready for our 
6-month mainland cruise.  Last week, Ann caught up on the home-front work, and neighbors joined the kids and Doug onboard.   (These neighbors had given the kids a coin-cutting class during the week).   A couple hours south we found a secluded cove with donkeys on the beach and snorkeled in 70 foot visibility waters loaded with fish.   In the morning, a school of brown sardines were bubbling around our hull while two big Yellowtail tuna stalked them from below.  Our friend Mark, a forager, hunter, gatherer, threw a net, caught a sardine, hooked it on a line, and Henry hooked a Yellowtail that unfortunately broke the line and got away.   So they smooshed bread on hooks and cast them overboard and reeled in 3 good sized Porgy -- a tasty, white meat.   Fish kept Henry and Mark so busy I had to bring their pancakes to the deck.   Later, Mark speared a Sun fish, Rooster fish and Bass, and we ate like kings.   The snorkeling was like swimming in a Sea World exhibit aquarium.   If you hung out at about 30 feet down, in 10 seconds fish would appear from all around.   Huge colorful, parrot fish bigger than rugby balls; flat fish like big saucers with yellow tails; and school of silver and black striped fish streamed right at me within 3 feet before veering off to the side.

Henry played a comp round of golf and occasionally goes out to hit a bucket of tennis balls with Dad.  He and two friends have recently been in a crab hunting mode and head out for the beach in the afternoons with a bucket and shovel and sticks.  They come back with dirty feet and knees and stories of raw crab they ate.  Chandler reads volumes and has a couple girlfriends that visit to get dressed up and act out lives in all ends of the world in their imagination.  Ann home schools each morning, is planning our trip to the U.S. and has made new curtains for the boat; Thursdays a friend joins her for a pool exercise / chat session.   The neighborhood maintenance business fills Doug’s mornings, and afternoons it is often the boat maintenance or a little tennis with Henry.    

We recently went to a high school talent show of singing, skits, and dancing with beautiful traditional costumes in an outdoors stage at night.  Loreto continues to offer us culture, adventure, and friendships amidst the beautiful and quiet environment of the Sea and mountains.

We’ll soon be in San Diego for our last provisioning trip before launching on our cruise to mainland Mexico in December.   H and C are excited about a U.S. Halloween night!  

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Slideshow

What’s the ‘Point of Sail’? A Q&A.

What got us interested in cruising with our kids?  
When Ann and I lived in Sausalito on our Cal 40, we met teenagers who had grown up on boats.   They seemed to be comfortable being around adults, respectful, and showed an interest in life and others.  We remember spotting two teenage friends who were running across a parking lot on a Friday night.   We shouted to them, and they looked like they’d been caught grabbing cookies.   But they were just excited about getting off work and to sail little El Toros in the Bay at night.  Their classmates may have been at home or mixing at a crowded party.   These two chose adventure, night sky, freedom.

How do our children like cruising?
Smiles and enthusiasm.   Henry, 9 years old,  fishes and sees the ocean as his backyard, watches fishermen harvest shellfish and fish, and runs the dinghy to visit coves, friends’ boats or a beach like its his own set of wheels.  He’ll troll a line for hours or take half an hour brushing his teeth over the rail while watching  the morning schools of fish scurry around the hull.   

There are several cruisers with kids, and we tend to orbit the same anchorages.  Their ages don’t matter.   Chandler, 10 years old, met Zada (5) on Eyoni and
bonded on sleepovers, cupcake bake outs, jewelry making, hair styling, fingernail painting and Littlest Pet Shop, and even hide and seek in the V-berth!.   Henry also runs outside his age with 4 to 14 year olds.   They’ve all got the same interests: dinghies, speed, and catching fish.   They’ve all got stories (toilet seat diving behind a dinghy!) and they are all fascinated in the other’s adventures; some day, it could be their’s.   These kids are all in the same “boat”. 

What do you do about school?
It is said that if you create the environment for learning, a child will learn.   Sailing, like a farm, or camping in the mountains is a learning environment.    We schedule a little of the usual:   math, reading, and writing.   We have our kids practice Spanish also.    Around noon, we each give reports: what we did, how we did it, what we didn’t do, and why not.   Then lunch and we jump in with reading classics to them and playing cards and games like Scrabble, Set, Bananagrams, backgammon, chess.   There are chores each morning before breakfast.  And for misbehavior?  Stuff 7 pieces of trash into a plastic bottle.  This compacts the trash, keeps down odors.   Henry however finds pleasure in taking a screw driver and pliers and cramming stuff into a hole.  

What is it like being together on a 35’ sail boat?
There seems to be some good mojo to raising kids on board.  Is it the closeness?  Is it an awareness that it takes each person to keep a cruise going?  Maybe its that something as personal as showering becomes an outside sport (in swim suits) because everyone has to plunge in and scrub together off the back of the boat.   There is no “walking away” from problems.  Everyone is needed at some point whether for launching the dinghy, carrying food back to the boat, or making sure something is tied down or safe on the boat.    You learn to put any discouragement or anger aside for more important focuses to find a solution to keep your boat safe.   It’s not just about you; your crew needs you.  

I lived in Japan in minimal space for 14 years.  On weekends, I’d see kids on the train at night returning to their homes after a long day out in town at the park or some hip-hop, shopping street -- their hair spiked or streaked, costume-dressed as street fighters or Bikers and girls made up as Go-Go girls to malt shop and saddle shoes of the 50’s.   And I’d wonder, “What happens to all that “image” as they crowd back into a train of the everyday conforming dress and manners now so close and surrounding them in the train?”   And when they reach their stop,  the narrow streets  funnel everyone down its traditional alleys with customary sounds of bathwater splashing on the ofuro tiles and the steady sliding sound of  aluminum door covers closing up for the night; and the smell of yakitori and straw tatami mats replace perfume and hairspray and leather jackets.   Then the front door is opened and all the teens’ shoes: boots, heels, stylishly torn  sneakers, are all removed and in each house the word, “tadaima” is announced in a low voice  -- a centuries’ old password that says “I’m home”, and the automatic response, “Okaerinasai”  is muffled from the other side of the paper shoji door of a common living/dining room.     And now a family is there in a space too tight to continue the day’s play,  in a community too familiar to pretend away from, in a culture too much one’s self to shame.   The separation that allowed the day’s pageant is closed, and  reminders of tomorrow’s role as uniformed school kids are laid out like bath towels and soap.   The change is just another role to play to fit in the home front.          

And a boat isn’t much different – the narrowing passages that lead to this lifestyle create commonalities that we all find necessary for successful voyaging.   Despite what mixed backgrounds or careers we paraded at one time,  Mother Nature and boat maintenance (and friendships) are so central that everyone’s part has value, insight, niche expertise, camaraderie, and often a simple part for an otherwise impossible repair.  Regardless of whatever fashion, clique, or age group our children imagine themselves in, this  environment brings them back to their “tadaima”  of the innate importance of  family and respect for others.  

What special moments do you find?
There are moments that make parents smile that are moments completely originated from  kids.  Like when our kids figured out how to rig a halyard so they can swing out over the bow and land on the cabin soul like buccaneers because they saw it on a friends’ boat.   Like when our son and his 4 year old friend invited us to the bow to see the sails they’d  rigged up --- all made from bandanas, clothes clips, and fishing line because they’ve seen how the sails work when the boat is under way.

Like when the kids wrote their own poetry pieces because they heard someone recite some lines or because they liked the words written on an old sandal that was hung on the “sailor’s shrine” bush on shore.   Like when Henry will grab a slimy fish or run a hook through live bait, or slurp a raw clam because their friends do and there’s nothing like bringing home or making your own lunch.  

To hear a 4 year old tell his buddy Henry, “When I grow up, I’m going to have a Ketch and sail the Ohio River.”  To hear a 5 year old do perfect VHF radio protocol to hail Chandler, and then watch our daughter race out the cabin and jump into the dinghy and pull start the engine and race away to a play date.  To collect shells for hours together on a beach.   Whatever this boat culture is, it is taking hold; they are picking up an education; the trend is in building confidence and independence. 

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Christmas in October

Since we will be sailing when Christmas comes along this year I thought it would be a fun treat to surprise the family and celebrate Christmas in October.  A few good reasons for doing this are:  I have no extra storage room for gifts on the boat, we feel sailing is the main family gift this year, plus, this means I get to watch "Elf" before December hits!  On Saturday, October 15 I asked Doug to take the kids to the boat until 5 PM so I could put up the fake Christmas tree, decorate it with twinkle lights, make home made egg nog and gingerbread cookie batter, pull out some Christmas cd's, wrap gifts, and make a traditional Mexican meal of arrachera tacos. 

It all worked well and when Doug, Chandler, and Henry Wyatt arrived home we all enjoyed the surprise Christmas I hoped to give them.  We celebrated Christmas Eve that night by watching Elf after dinner and the kids slept under the Christmas tree in the living room while Doug and I slept downstairs in Chandler's room to be closer to the fun.  The next morning it really did feel like Christmas morning as we opened a few gifts before having a traditional turkey (well, chicken) and stuffing meal followed by gingerbread cookie baking.  My guess is we will long remember our Christmas in October.

Friday, October 15, 2010

Eating octopus

A neighbor in Loreto caught some octopus and brought it home to eat.  The kids got a lesson in squishy fishy food that day.  Check it out!

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Fish thoughts


We sailed to Dansante, an island off the coast of Loreto, for an overnight.  The next morning as Chandler started to prepare breakfast, she asked Henry to get a fry pan out of the pantry, at which Henry replied, “I don’t know this kitchen anymore and where everything is.”   So, I gave the kids a quick galley refresher.  When I was done Henry waited a moment and then he said, “Mom, I can’t remember all that right now because I’m thinking too much about fish, fishing, and snorkeling.”  Alleluiah!  The kid’s got it straight!